NATURAL DESIGNS
JEWELRY

GEMSTONE
HISTORY AND DEFINITIONS
Be sure to link to our gemstone and shell pages
- Home Page
Link to see how the stones and
shells described below are designed with sterling and gold-filled
findings or in strands to make beautiful and unique necklaces,
earrings and bracelets. 
Gemstones are one of nature's rarest products. The
three attributes that a gemstone must possess are rarity, beauty and
color. Even in prehistoric times, people were attracted to pretty
pebbles, and when combined with translucency or even transparency
with color, they were highly prized. See pictures below.
Its color is a gemstone's most important and
individual characteristic. The color should be rich - not so pale as
to give the stone an anemic appearance, nor so deep as to make it
look dark or even black, particularly in artificial light. Too dark a
color reduces transparency and a stone should retain a lively look
with some sparkle, which is achieved by skillful cutting and
faceting. In many stones the distribution of color is uneven. When
this results in clear divisions, as with tourmalines or agates, this
is a much sought after effect. The blending of the various colours or
tints of the same color and the various designs and patterns produced
as they are by nature, give such stone an individual appeal that
makes each one unique. See examples and pictures below.
Another sought after quality is a high lustre.
Amber and some garnet have a resinous lustre, while turquoise is
sometimes described as "waxy". Lustre does not give a stone
brilliance. In certain gemstones brilliance is produced by the
skillful cutting of the stone's facets in such a way that they
reflect light like mirrors, making the whole stone bright and shining
when viewed from the top.
These are the main characteristics which give
gemstones their unique appearance and which distinguish them from the
great mass of other minerals. There is, however, a most important
attribute which gemstones should posses: permanence.
Some stones have a cat's eye and star
effect.
Cat's Eye
(See Home Page)Cat's eye's are caused by extremely fine
hollow channels traversing the stone at right
angles to the line. In most species the 'eye' is caused by solid
fibrous crystals and is therefore coarser and more diffuse. Accurate
cutting is required to place the line exactly in the middle of the
stone; oddly, the half that is nearer the light looks darker than
that further away.
These are produced in stones cut as cabochons with
a rounded top, by fibrous crystals or channels within the stone.
These inclusions give the stone a moving line of light across its
centre (cat's eye) or, when two or more such lines intersect in the
middle, the appearance of a four, six, or even twelve-rayed star.
Tiger Eye,
(See
Home Page) technically called Chatoyant Quartz due to the fibrous
structure. It has iron oxide that gives it wavy, golden brown
stripes, or a "cat's eye" effect. 
Some jewels have a history which can be traced
back over hundreds and even thousands of years. In constant daily
wear they are exposed to much greater risks than when they were
safely embedded in their original rocks. They must, therefore, be
able to stand up to the knocks, abrasion and even thought
unintentional ill-treatment they sometimes receive.
The most desirable quality under this heading is
resistance to abrasion. Less damage is likely to come to them in
necklaces and earrings.
The ten standard minerals are known as Mohs'
scale. They are:
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1.Talc
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6. Orthoclase feldspar
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2. Gypsum
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7. Quartz
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3. Calcite
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8. Topaz
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4. Fluorite
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9. Corundum
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5. Apatite
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10. Diamond
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Feldspars are among the most common rock-forming
minerals of igneous formation. Their pale crystals, opaque to
translucent, can be seen mixed with other minerals and many other
rocks.The gem materials of the feldspar group, or number 6 on the
hardness scale and they should therefore not be exposed to hard
wear. Moonstone (See Home Page)
is in this category. Moonstones occur in a variety of
colors including gray, blue, green, brown, yellow and white.
Moonstones are usually cut as cabochons in such a way as to display
the sheen to best advantage and are set in necklaces and earrings.
They are also made into beads. Aventurine
(See
Jewelry Box 1
Page) and
Adventurine has fine platelets of hematite, an iron oxide.
Labradorite is also in the feldspar group. Labradorite is
usually dark gray in color but if viewed from the right angle,
suddenly flashes into bright colors. It comes from Labrador,
Canada.
Garnet
(See New Items Page) is an extremely popular burgundy-red
gemstone and is not particularly rare. All garnets are silicates of
two metals. They can be fully transparent to opaque. The name
'garnet' derives from the Latin granatum, or pomegranate.
There are 6 garnet varieties and five of them are used as
gemstones.
Jade
has
been held in high esteem since Neolithic times both for its pleasant
color and its toughness in use. The name 'jade' is derived from the
Spanish pietra d'ijada or colic stone; it was once regarded as
a potent medicine. In China, where jade has been venerated for
thousands of years, over a hundred different names are in use for
different color varieties. Imperial jade is transparent;it is prized
by the Chinese above all other gemstones. It is so clear that it is
possible to read print easily through a good specimen.
Lapis Lazuli - (See Jewelry Box
2)
is
another stone that has been in high
favor for ornamental purposes over thousands of
years. The ancient civilizations of Sumer, India, Egypt and China all
esteemed it greatly and some archaeological finds have proved that
its deposits, in remote parts of Afghanistan, have been worked for
more than 6,000 years. It is popular due to its intense blue color
which is utterly resistant to fading in sunlight. Lapis lazuli is a
rock rather than a mineral. Its blue constituents are supplied by an
isomorphous series of aluminum silicates. Lapis lazuli also contains
white or gray calcite, yellow metallic specks of pyrite and minor
mixtures of other minerals. The name of this stone seems to have
originated in the Middle Ages: 'lapis' means stone and 'lazuli' is
derived from the Arabic word for blue. Some minor deposits of lapis
are in Siberia; in Upper Burma; in the Sawatch Range of Colorado and
in San Bernardino County, California.
Malachite, (See Home and Fan
Page)
with its bands of dark and bright green, is an attractive ornamental
material which takes quite good polish in spite of its low hardness
of 4. Being quite opaque, it is made into beads, earrings, pendants
and a great variety of objets de'art, sometimes of large size. It is
copper carbonate. Sometimes it occurs mixed with azurite,
(See Fan Page)
a closely related blue mineral.
Peridot (pronounced peridow)
(See
New Items Page) is a transparent popular green gemstone.
It contains both iron and magnesium in proportions that vary a little
from stone to stone. It is set in necklaces, earrings and looks
charming surrounded by small amethysts or garnets.
Silica gems, based on quartz, contain the
two most common chemical elements in the earth's crust in
combination: the gas oxygen and the non-metallic
element silicon in its properties. This family forms the largest
group of gemstones, both in the number of varieties and in the
quantities mined. It includes one truly precious species, opal, and a
large number of semi-precious stones such as jasper. The gemstones
can be classified into 3 varieties: quartz, which is transparent cut
from a single crystal; translucent varieties covered by the term
'chalcedony', and opal. The crystals of quartz and chalcedony are of
exactly the same composition and structure. They differ only in size.
The name 'quartz' derives from the German querertz meaning
'crossing ore'. When pure, it is absolutely colorless and is called
rock crystal. Quartz has a Mohs' hardness of 7. One type of very
popular crystal is Swarovski crystal.
Swarovski
Austrian Crystal
is
the finest quality, full-leaded crystal. (See Jewelry Box 1) The
crystal is optically very pure, and is faceted with high precision,
which creates beautiful prisms. Brilliant colors are added to these
crystals to create beads of dazzling beauty and a wide variety of
shapes and sizes.
Amethyst
ranked
among the most precious stones until the eighteenth century when a
large South American deposit was found in 1760. Its purple color is
thought to be caused by iron and is still very popular.
Carnelian
(See
New Items Page) is part of the chalcedony family. It is
reddish-orange and translucent.
Citrine
(See
Jewelry Box 1 Page) is the correct name for all yellow and pale
brown varieties of quartz. Citrine is the most common yellow stone
available. It also has a nice variety of colors.
Another semi-transparent to translucent variety is
rose quartz,
(See Wedding and Pendant Page) colored a subtle shade of pink
by manganese. This is rather rarer than the varieties so far named.
It comes from Brazil and from South-West Africa. Curiously, it seldom
occurs in well-shaped crystals.
Another type of chalcedony is
Agate,
which includes moss agate, banded agate, blue lace agate.
They have an amazing variety of color.
Topaz crystals have been held in high
regard as gemstones from classical times. Most topaz is known for its
yellow color. The pink topaz is rare in nature and is usually
heat-treated to get its rich color.
Tourmaline shows the widest range of lovely
colors of all the gemstones. Every possible hue can be found in this
most versatile of all gems. Sometimes the colors come in a multitude
of parallel stripes. The profusion of colors is calused by the
somewhat complex chemical competition of the stone. It is a
borosilicate compound of several different metals which can be
present in varying proportions. The properties, particularly the
density, can vary considerably. Its crystal structure is constant. It
is a fairly hard gemstone (7 to 7 1/2) which can be worn in any form
of jewelry. In most stones a light and a dark tint of the main body
color are present and the stones can accordingly be cut so as to
present either a lighter or a darker shade.
Turquoise
(See turquoise and coral page) has been used as an ornament
since the dawn of history. Rich
necklets and plaques of gold set with turquoise have been found in
Egyptian and Sumerian tombs of the fourth millennium BC as well as
bead of even greater antiquity. Turquoise is a phosphate of copper
and aluminum containing some water and it fills fissures and cavities
where rock have weathered in the proximity of copper deposits. Wax or
resin is usually added to turquoise after polishing to minimize the
danger of loss of color. Some stones are veined with black limonite
which is called turquoise matrix. Few gemstones have been
imitated as widely as turquoise. Even in ancient Egypt, beads were
made from blue faience, a kind of glazed earthenware, which resembles
turquoise closely. Other imitations are made from a variety of
powders similar to turquoise in composition and either compressed or
bonded with plastics.
Hematite
(See
Jewelry Box 2 Page) is a common iron ore, black and quite opaque
that is sometimes cut into cabochons or carved and even faceted
because of its metallic lustre.
Rhodochrosite and Rhodonite
(see
New Items Page) are crypto-crystalline manganese minerals that
can be cut to form cabochons of attractive pink to rose-red shades.
Rhodochrosite is the softer (hardness 4) but has the more pleasing
colors and designs, being banded with white. Rhodonite with hardness
of 6 is much more common; it is darker in tint and has black
flecks.
Amber
(See
Home and Ring Pages) has been held in high esteem for thousands
of years because of its warm, golden transparency and the soft lustre
it acquires after it is polished. Unlike other minerals, amber is
formed from the resin of a (now extinct) species of pine tree and not
from the inorganic constituents of the earth's crust. Amber is more
appropriately classed among ornamental materials but no account of
gemstones would be complete without its inclusion, if only because
its popularity and long history. Cloudiness in amber is caused by
minute air bubbles. Amber is famous for containing insects other
things such as pieces of bark and leaves which became stuck while the
amber was still liquid.
Goldstone
(See
Jewelry Box 3 Page) In an ancient glass factory at Murano near
Venice, Italy, molten copper was tipped by accident into a crucible
of molten glass. The copper crystallized out in tiny bright
triangular crystals forming a melt from which objects scintillating
with countless points of golden light could be formed. This is a
man-made stone but often classified as a 'gemstone'
-SHELLS-
Mother of pearl is formed by various salt-water
and freshwater molluscs. Mother of Pearl is luminescent and matches
any color of clothing.
(See
Jewelry Box 3 Page)
Coral
(See
turquoise and coral page) consists of lime deposited by marine
polyps. Coral and turquoise are enjoying new popularity.
Mosaic
(See
Jewelry Box 2 Page) shell is a beautiful blend of natural orange,
pink and white in a most pleasing design.
Abalone
(See
Home Page) is a beautiful multi-colored shell that is cut into
various designs of pendants and beads.
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